How much sanding of the cut-out plywood parts in the kits?
  • Hello fellow clock builders,

    I am the proud new owner of a Sextus kit and have just started working on it.

    My first question is how much sanding is recommended on the plywood cut-out parts to get the best combination of good looks and smooth movement?

    Is it enough to simply sand down the rough edges to remove the splinters? Or do you recommend a more aggressive sanding regimen to try for a silky smooth part all around? Or something in-between? Is this just a personal preference decision or are there real ramifications for clock function?

    Thanks in advance for any/all replies.

    -Bryan
  • Without actually beating my own drum, although I am about to, the bits I use to cut the parts are 7 fluted up-cut spiral bits, which basically are the best for the job, although not the cheapest, leaving a pretty smooth surface, that coupled with the multilayered high density ply ensure that all you really need to do is just, with a few strokes of 180 grade, remove any remaining fibres.
    As soon as your clock is up and running it will eventually polish its cogs by itself, I do nothing special as far as the teeth are concerned really just a few strokes with sandpaper and that's it.
    I would even go so far as to say that the cogs could be taken directly from the sheets, obviously all "tab" residue must be removed, and it would still produce a working clock.
    So to cut a long story short, do a bit sanding so that the cog is pleasing to the eye and thats it.
    There are suggestions out there, that recommend polishing the teeth with a dremel and buffer wheel, or applying wax to the contact surfaces, so on and so forth, all valid but on my kits not necessary.




  • Thanks for the super-fast response, Dave!

    It's great to know that minimal sanding is required.
  • I had to do a lot more sanding. I went from 100 wetordry to 220 to 320 to 400 to 600 and still I have too much friction.